Learning basic vehicle maintenance can help you better understand your car, save money, and catch small problems before they become bigger repairs. These beginner DIY guides cover simple maintenance jobs that most new car owners can learn with basic tools and a little patience.

Engine oil lubricates and protects the moving parts inside your engine. Over time, the oil becomes dirty and needs to be replaced.

Before starting, make sure you have the correct engine oil, a new oil filter, an oil drain pan, basic hand tools, a funnel, gloves, safety glasses, a floor jack, and jack stands if the vehicle needs to be raised.

1. Park the vehicle on a flat, solid surface.
2. Allow the engine to cool enough to work safely.
3. If necessary, raise the vehicle and safely support it with jack stands.
4. Locate the engine oil drain plug underneath the engine.
5. Place the oil drain pan underneath the drain plug.
6. Remove the drain plug and allow the old oil to drain completely.
7. Reinstall and properly tighten the drain plug.
8. Replace the engine oil filter.
9. Lower the vehicle if it was raised.
10. Add the correct amount and type of new engine oil.
11. Start the engine and let it run briefly.
12. Shut the engine off and check underneath the vehicle for leaks.
13. Wait a few minutes and check the oil level with the dipstick.
14. Add more oil if necessary, but do not overfill the engine.

Always dispose of used engine oil and filters properly. Most automotive parts stores or recycling centers can accept used motor oil.

The oil filter helps remove dirt and contaminants from your engine oil. It is normally replaced whenever the engine oil is changed.

1. Locate the engine oil filter.
2. Place an oil drain pan underneath the filter.
3. Carefully loosen the old oil filter using your hand or an oil filter wrench.
4. Remove the filter and allow any remaining oil to drain into the pan.
5. Make sure the old rubber filter gasket did not stick to the engine.
6. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter.
7. Install the new oil filter.
8. Tighten it according to the filter or vehicle manufacturer's instructions.
9. Start the engine and inspect the filter area for leaks.

Never install a new oil filter over an old gasket. Two gaskets can prevent the filter from sealing correctly and cause a serious oil leak.

Checking your engine oil is one of the easiest maintenance jobs you can perform.

1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan.
4. Open the hood and locate the engine oil dipstick.
5. Pull the dipstick out.
6. Wipe it clean with a paper towel or clean rag.
7. Insert the dipstick completely back into its tube.
8. Pull it out again.
9. Look at the oil level markings near the end of the dipstick.

The oil level should normally be between the LOW/MIN and FULL/MAX marks.

If the oil level is low, add the correct engine oil a little at a time. Never overfill the engine.

Some newer vehicles use an electronic oil-level system instead of a traditional dipstick. Follow your owner's manual for the correct checking procedure.

If your engine oil level is low, you may need to add oil.

1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Open the hood.
4. Locate the engine oil filler cap.
5. Remove the oil filler cap.
6. Place a clean funnel into the opening.
7. Slowly add a small amount of the correct engine oil.
8. Wait briefly for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
9. Check the oil level again.
10. Continue adding small amounts until the level is correct.
11. Reinstall the oil filler cap securely.

Do not simply pour in an entire quart because the dipstick shows a low reading. Add oil gradually and keep checking the level.

Too much engine oil can also cause problems.

Not every vehicle uses the same engine oil.

Engine oil is available in different viscosity grades such as:

0W-20

5W-20

5W-30

10W-30

Your vehicle manufacturer determines which oil viscosity and specification should be used in your engine.

Before purchasing oil, check:

• Your vehicle owner's manual
• The engine oil filler cap
• The manufacturer's maintenance information

For example, if your vehicle requires 0W-20, use oil that meets the manufacturer's required specifications rather than automatically choosing a thicker oil.

You may also see conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic engine oils. Many modern vehicles require or recommend synthetic oil.

The safest choice is always to follow the specifications provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

Never work underneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. If the vehicle must be raised, place it on properly positioned jack stands on a solid, level surface.

Wear safety glasses and gloves, keep your work area clean, and never work around a hot engine or hot exhaust system.

Take your time. If you are unsure about a procedure, stop and check the repair information for your specific year, make, model, and engine.

Your life is more important than the repair.

© Dirty Junky Car. All Rights Reserved.

This information is provided for educational purposes only. Vehicle designs, procedures, specifications, capacities, and maintenance requirements vary. Always consult the manufacturer's service information and owner's manual for your specific vehicle before performing maintenance or repairs.

www.DirtyjunkyCar.com

Engine coolant helps keep your engine from overheating. It also helps protect the cooling system from freezing, rust, and corrosion.

WARNING: Never remove a radiator cap when the engine is hot. Hot coolant can be under pressure and can cause serious burns.

1. Park the vehicle on a flat surface.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Allow the engine to cool completely.
4. Open the hood.
5. Locate the coolant reservoir.
6. Look for the MIN and MAX or LOW and FULL markings.
7. Check the coolant level.
8. If the coolant is low, verify the correct coolant type for your vehicle.
9. Slowly remove the coolant reservoir cap only when the system is cool and the manufacturer's procedure allows it.
10. Add coolant until it reaches the proper level.
11. Do not overfill the reservoir.
12. Reinstall the cap securely.

Never mix random coolant types or colors. Different vehicles require different coolant specifications.

If your coolant keeps getting low, the vehicle may have a leak that needs to be inspected.

Brake fluid is an important part of your vehicle's braking system. A low brake fluid level can indicate a problem that should not be ignored.

1. Park the vehicle on a flat surface.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Open the hood.
4. Locate the brake fluid reservoir.
5. Look for the MIN and MAX markings on the reservoir.
6. Check the fluid level without opening the reservoir if possible.
7. The brake fluid should normally be between the MIN and MAX marks.

Before adding brake fluid, check your owner's manual for the correct type, such as DOT 3 or DOT 4.

Do not automatically add brake fluid just because the level is slightly lower than MAX. The fluid level can gradually decrease as the brake pads wear.

If the brake fluid is extremely low or suddenly drops, have the braking system inspected for worn components or leaks.

Never ignore a brake fluid leak or brake warning light.

Adding windshield washer fluid is one of the easiest DIY maintenance jobs.

1. Park the vehicle and shut the engine off.
2. Open the hood.
3. Locate the windshield washer fluid reservoir.
4. Look for the windshield/water spray symbol on the cap.
5. Remove the cap.
6. Slowly pour windshield washer fluid into the reservoir.
7. Stop when the reservoir is properly filled.
8. Reinstall the cap.
9. Close the hood.
10. Test the windshield washers.

Use windshield washer fluid designed for automotive use. If you live in an area with freezing temperatures, choose washer fluid designed for cold weather.

Your engine air filter helps prevent dirt, dust, leaves, and other debris from entering the engine.

A dirty air filter can restrict airflow.

1. Park the vehicle and shut the engine off.
2. Open the hood.
3. Locate the engine air filter box.
4. Inspect how the air filter box is secured.
5. Release the clips or remove the screws or bolts holding the air box closed.
6. Carefully open the air filter box.
7. Remove the old engine air filter.
8. Check the bottom of the air box for leaves or loose debris.
9. Install the new air filter in the correct position.
10. Make sure the filter is seated properly.
11. Close the air filter box.
12. Reinstall the clips, screws, or bolts.

Make sure you purchase the correct air filter for your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine.

The cabin air filter helps filter dust, pollen, dirt, and other particles from the air entering your vehicle's interior.

On many vehicles, the cabin air filter is located behind the glove box.

1. Park the vehicle and shut the engine off.
2. Open the glove box.
3. Remove any items stored inside.
4. Check your owner's manual for the cabin air filter location.
5. Carefully lower or remove the glove box if required.
6. Locate the cabin air filter cover.
7. Remove the cover.
8. Slowly pull out the old cabin air filter.
9. Look for the airflow direction arrow on the old filter.
10. Install the new filter in the correct direction.
11. Reinstall the filter cover.
12. Reinstall or raise the glove box.
13. Make sure everything is securely installed.

Cabin air filter locations vary by vehicle. Some vehicles may not have a replaceable cabin air filter.

Good windshield wipers help you see clearly during rain, snow, and dirty road conditions.

Replace your wiper blades if they are cracked, damaged, streaking, skipping, or no longer cleaning the windshield properly.

1. Park the vehicle and shut it off.
2. Determine the correct wiper blade sizes for your vehicle.
3. Carefully lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.
4. Locate the locking tab or connector holding the blade to the arm.
5. Release the old wiper blade.
6. Carefully remove it from the wiper arm.
7. Install the new wiper blade onto the arm.
8. Make sure it locks securely into position.
9. Gently lower the wiper arm back onto the windshield.
10. Repeat the process on the other side.
11. Test the new windshield wipers.

Safety Tip: Never allow the bare metal wiper arm to snap against the windshield. It can crack or damage the glass.

Wiper blade attachment designs vary. Follow the instructions included with your replacement blades if the connector looks different.

Always work in a safe area and take your time.

Never open a hot cooling system. Never ignore problems involving your brakes. Always use the correct fluids, filters, and replacement parts specified for your vehicle.

When you are unsure, check your owner's manual or repair information for your specific year, make, model, and engine.

Your life is more important than the repair.

© Dirty Junky Car. All Rights Reserved.

This information is provided for educational purposes only. Vehicle designs, procedures, specifications, fluid requirements, and maintenance procedures vary. Always consult the manufacturer's service information and owner's manual for your specific vehicle before performing maintenance or repairs.

www.DirtyJunkyCar.com

Opening the hood of a car can look confusing if you have never worked on a vehicle before. There are hoses, wires, belts, reservoirs, and many different parts.

Don't worry. You do not need to understand everything at once.

Start by learning how to identify the basic maintenance items you will use most often.

Every vehicle is different, but most gasoline-powered cars have several basic components you should learn to recognize.

Common items under the hood include:

• Engine
• Engine oil dipstick
• Engine oil fill cap
• Coolant reservoir
• Brake fluid reservoir
• Windshield washer fluid reservoir
• Engine air filter box
• Battery
• Serpentine belt
• Fuse box

Some newer vehicles may look very different. Hybrid and electric vehicles can also contain high-voltage components that beginners should not touch.

Your owner's manual is one of the best places to learn where basic maintenance items are located on your particular vehicle.

Most vehicles have an interior hood-release handle.

It is commonly located underneath the dashboard on the driver's side.

To open the hood:

1. Park the vehicle safely.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Apply the parking brake.
4. Locate the hood-release handle.
5. Pull the handle.
6. Walk to the front of the vehicle.
7. Find the secondary safety latch underneath the front edge of the hood.
8. Release the safety latch.
9. Carefully raise the hood.
10. Install the hood prop rod if your vehicle uses one.

Some vehicles use hood struts that automatically hold the hood open.

Before working underneath the hood, make sure it is securely supported.

To close the hood, remove and secure the prop rod if equipped, carefully lower the hood, and close it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Always verify that the hood is completely latched before driving.

The engine oil dipstick allows you to check the engine oil level.

Open the hood and look around the engine for a small handle or loop.

It may be:

• Yellow
• Orange
• Red
• Black
• Another color

Some handles may have an oil symbol.

Pulling the dipstick out reveals a long, thin metal strip that extends down into the engine.

If you cannot find a dipstick, check your owner's manual. Some newer vehicles use an electronic oil-level monitoring system instead of a traditional dipstick.

Never confuse the engine oil dipstick with a transmission fluid dipstick.

The engine oil fill cap is normally located on or near the top of the engine.

Look for a removable cap with an oil-can symbol.

The cap may also show the recommended engine oil viscosity, such as:

0W-20

5W-20

5W-30

Do not pour oil into a random opening under the hood.

Always positively identify the engine oil fill cap before adding engine oil.

The coolant reservoir is usually a plastic container located somewhere inside the engine compartment.

Look for markings such as:

MIN / MAX

or

LOW / FULL

The reservoir may contain coolant that is pink, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, or another color depending on the vehicle.

WARNING: Never remove a radiator or pressurized coolant cap while the engine is hot.

Hot coolant can be under pressure and can cause serious burns.

If you are unsure which container is the coolant reservoir, check your owner's manual before opening anything.

The brake fluid reservoir is normally located near the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side on many vehicles.

It is attached to the brake master cylinder.

Look for a small reservoir with fluid-level markings such as:

MIN / MAX

The cap may also identify the required brake fluid, such as DOT 3 or DOT 4.

Brake fluid is extremely important to the safe operation of your braking system.

If the brake fluid is extremely low or keeps getting lower, do not simply keep adding fluid. The braking system should be inspected for worn components or possible leaks.

The windshield washer reservoir holds the cleaning fluid used to spray your windshield.

Look for a cap with a windshield and water-spray symbol.

The cap is often blue, but colors vary.

Do not confuse the windshield washer reservoir with the coolant reservoir, brake fluid reservoir, or another fluid container.

When in doubt, check your owner's manual.

The serpentine belt drives important engine accessories on many vehicles.

Depending on the vehicle, it may operate components such as the:

• Alternator
• Water pump
• Power steering pump
• Air-conditioning compressor

With the engine completely OFF, visually inspect the belt.

Look for:

• Cracks
• Fraying
• Missing belt ribs
• Severe glazing
• Oil contamination
• Coolant contamination
• Damaged edges
• Pieces of belt missing

Never place your hands near a serpentine belt while the engine is running.

If the belt looks damaged or is making unusual noises, further inspection may be necessary.

Before removing a serpentine belt, find the correct belt-routing diagram for your vehicle.

Some vehicles have a diagram underneath the hood. You can also use the manufacturer's service information.

A basic replacement may include:

1. Park safely and shut the engine off.
2. Allow the engine to cool.
3. Locate the serpentine belt.
4. Find the belt-routing diagram.
5. Locate the belt tensioner.
6. Use the correct tool to carefully release belt tension.
7. Remove the old belt.
8. Inspect the pulleys and tensioner.
9. Route the new belt correctly around the pulleys.
10. Carefully release the tensioner onto the new belt.
11. Make sure the belt is properly seated in every pulley groove.
12. Double-check the routing before starting the engine.
13. Start the engine and visually confirm that the belt is tracking correctly from a safe distance.

Never work around the belt or pulleys while the engine is running.

The belt tensioner keeps the proper amount of tension on the serpentine belt.

A worn tensioner can sometimes cause belt noise, improper belt tension, or belt movement.

A basic replacement may include:

1. Shut the engine off.
2. Allow the engine to cool.
3. Locate the belt tensioner.
4. Record or photograph the belt routing.
5. Release belt tension.
6. Remove the serpentine belt.
7. Locate the tensioner mounting bolt or bolts.
8. Remove the old tensioner.
9. Compare the replacement tensioner with the original.
10. Install the new tensioner.
11. Tighten the mounting hardware to manufacturer specifications.
12. Reinstall the serpentine belt.
13. Verify the belt is correctly routed.
14. Make sure the belt is seated correctly on every pulley.

Tensioner designs vary greatly. Some vehicles require additional components to be removed for access.

A weak or failed 12-volt battery is one of the most common problems vehicle owners encounter.

Before replacing a battery, make sure you have the correct battery for your vehicle.

Wear safety glasses and gloves.

For a basic conventional vehicle:

1. Shut the vehicle completely off.
2. Remove the key and keep it away from the vehicle.
3. Open the hood.
4. Locate the battery.
5. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.
6. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first.
7. Disconnect the positive (+) cable second.
8. Remove the battery hold-down.
9. Carefully remove the old battery.
10. Place the replacement battery into position.
11. Reinstall the battery hold-down.
12. Connect the positive (+) cable first.
13. Connect the negative (-) cable last.
14. Make sure the connections are secure.

Automotive batteries are heavy. Lift carefully.

Never allow a metal tool to contact both battery terminals or the positive terminal and grounded metal at the same time.

Some modern vehicles require battery registration, computer resets, special procedures, or backup power during battery replacement. Always check the manufacturer's instructions for your specific vehicle.

Hybrid and electric vehicles can also contain high-voltage systems. Do not confuse a standard 12-volt battery with high-voltage components.

Battery terminals sometimes develop white, blue, or green corrosion.

Corrosion can interfere with the electrical connection between the battery and the vehicle.

Wear gloves and safety glasses before working around a battery.

1. Shut the vehicle completely off.
2. Identify the positive and negative terminals.
3. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal first.
4. Disconnect the positive (+) terminal second.
5. Inspect the battery for cracks, leaks, swelling, or other damage.
6. Use a battery-terminal cleaning product and appropriate battery-terminal brush according to the product instructions.
7. Clean corrosion from the cable terminals and battery posts.
8. Keep cleaning materials and debris away from your skin and eyes.
9. Allow the area to dry as required.
10. Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first.
11. Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last.
12. Make sure both connections are secure.

If the battery is leaking, cracked, swollen, badly damaged, or repeatedly develops severe corrosion, replacement or further inspection may be necessary.

Before touching anything underneath the hood, stop and look around.

The engine, exhaust components, coolant, and other parts can become extremely hot.

Never place your hands near moving belts, pulleys, fans, or other rotating components.

Remember that some electric cooling fans can turn on automatically, even when you are not expecting them to.

Never open a hot or pressurized cooling system.

Never work on unidentified high-voltage cables or components found in hybrid or electric vehicles.

If you do not know what a component is, do not disconnect it, remove it, open it, or pour fluid into it.

Identify it first.

Learning basic automotive maintenance is not about knowing everything immediately. Start with the basics, work safely, and build your knowledge one repair at a time.

Your life is more important than the repair.

You do not need to be a professional mechanic to take better care of your vehicle.

Simple inspections, cleaning, and basic maintenance can help keep your car looking good, operating properly, and ready for the road.

These beginner car-care guides are designed for new drivers and first-time DIYers.

A clean engine bay can make inspections easier, but you should never simply open the hood and spray everything with high-pressure water.

Modern engine compartments contain electrical connectors, sensors, computers, fuse boxes, and other components that can be damaged by water.

1. Park the vehicle in a safe area.
2. Shut the engine off.
3. Allow the engine to cool completely.
4. Remove loose leaves and debris by hand.
5. Identify sensitive electrical components.
6. Protect exposed or sensitive electrical areas from water as appropriate for your vehicle.
7. Apply an automotive-safe engine cleaner according to its instructions.
8. Use a soft brush or towel on dirty areas.
9. Use as little water as necessary.
10. Avoid spraying high-pressure water directly into electrical connectors, fuse boxes, air intakes, alternators, computers, or sensors.
11. Dry accessible areas with clean towels.
12. Remove any protective coverings you installed.
13. Make sure everything is dry and properly installed before starting the vehicle.

The goal is to clean the engine bay, not flood it.

When in doubt, use a damp towel and clean individual areas by hand.

Wheels collect dirt, road grime, brake dust, and other contaminants.

Cleaning them regularly can help keep them looking their best.

1. Park the vehicle in a shaded area if possible.
2. Make sure the wheels are cool.
3. Rinse loose dirt from the wheel.
4. Apply a wheel cleaner that is safe for your specific wheel finish.
5. Allow the cleaner to work according to its instructions.
6. Gently scrub the wheel using a soft wheel brush.
7. Clean around the lug nuts and wheel openings.
8. Rinse thoroughly.
9. Dry the wheel with a clean microfiber towel.

Never assume every wheel cleaner is safe for every type of wheel.

Painted, polished, chrome, aluminum, and specialty wheels may require different cleaning products.

Brake dust is the dark material that commonly builds up on wheels.

It comes mainly from normal brake pad and rotor wear.

1. Make sure the wheels and brakes are completely cool.
2. Rinse the wheel.
3. Apply an appropriate wheel cleaner.
4. Allow the cleaner to loosen the brake dust.
5. Gently scrub stubborn areas with a wheel-safe brush.
6. Clean around the spokes and lug nuts.
7. Rinse the wheel thoroughly.
8. Dry it with a clean microfiber towel.

Do not use harsh household chemicals or abrasive materials that could damage the wheel finish.

Heavy brake dust that suddenly appears on only one wheel can sometimes indicate a brake problem that should be inspected.

Dirty or cloudy headlights can reduce visibility at night.

For basic cleaning:

1. Park the vehicle and shut it off.
2. Make sure the headlights are cool.
3. Wash away loose dirt.
4. Clean the headlight lenses with automotive soap and water.
5. Dry them with a microfiber towel.
6. Inspect the lenses.

If the headlights remain yellow or cloudy after cleaning, the plastic lenses may be oxidized.

A headlight restoration kit can often improve oxidized lenses. Follow the instructions included with the restoration product.

If moisture is trapped inside the headlight assembly, there may be a sealing or ventilation problem that needs further inspection.

A burned-out license plate bulb is usually a simple repair.

1. Park the vehicle.
2. Shut the lights and vehicle off.
3. Locate the license plate light.
4. Determine how the lens or bulb holder is removed.
5. Remove the screws, clips, or bulb socket as required.
6. Remove the old bulb.
7. Compare it with the replacement bulb.
8. Install the new bulb.
9. Reinstall the socket or lens.
10. Turn the lights on.
11. Verify that the new bulb works.

Do not force plastic clips or covers. Older plastic can become brittle and break easily.

Exterior lights help you see and help other drivers see you.

Basic replaceable bulbs may include:

• Headlight bulbs
• Brake light bulbs
• Tail light bulbs
• Turn signal bulbs
• Reverse light bulbs
• Side marker bulbs

The basic procedure is usually:

1. Shut the vehicle and lights off.
2. Locate the back of the light assembly.
3. Determine how the bulb or socket is removed.
4. Carefully remove the socket or bulb.
5. Install the correct replacement bulb.
6. Reinstall the socket.
7. Turn the lights on.
8. Verify proper operation.

Some halogen headlight bulbs should not be touched directly on the glass with bare fingers. Oils from your skin can damage the bulb.

Many newer vehicles use LED lighting assemblies that may not have individually replaceable bulbs.

Interior bulbs can usually be replaced with basic hand tools.

These may include:

• Dome lights
• Map lights
• Trunk lights
• Cargo lights
• Glove box lights

1. Shut the vehicle off.
2. Turn the interior light off if possible.
3. Carefully remove the light cover.
4. Remove the old bulb.
5. Compare it with the replacement.
6. Install the new bulb.
7. Test the light.
8. Reinstall the cover.

Be gentle with plastic interior pieces because they can crack or break.

Some modern vehicles use integrated LED assemblies instead of replaceable bulbs.

A damaged, loose, or missing gas cap can sometimes cause a check engine light on vehicles with a traditional sealed fuel cap.

1. Shut the engine off.
2. Open the fuel door.
3. Remove the old gas cap.
4. Inspect the filler area for damage.
5. Verify that the replacement cap is correct for your vehicle.
6. Install the new cap.
7. Tighten it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
8. Close the fuel door.

Some newer vehicles use a capless fuel system and do not have a traditional gas cap.

If a check engine light remains on after replacing a damaged gas cap, the vehicle may have another problem that requires diagnosis.

Your spare tire will not help much during an emergency if it is flat.

Check it before you need it.

1. Locate your spare tire.
2. Remove the cover if necessary.
3. Inspect the tire for visible damage.
4. Look for cracks, cuts, or other deterioration.
5. Check the tire pressure with a tire pressure gauge.
6. Inflate it to the pressure specified for the spare tire.
7. Inspect the spare tire mounting area.
8. Make sure your jack is present.
9. Make sure the lug wrench is present.
10. Make sure any special wheel-lock key is inside the vehicle.

Temporary spare tires often require much higher air pressure than the regular tires.

Always check the pressure specification printed on the spare tire or provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

Remember that temporary spare tires may have speed and distance limitations.

Before taking a long trip, spend a little time checking your vehicle.

Start with the basics.

Check your:

• Engine oil
• Coolant level
• Brake fluid level
• Windshield washer fluid
• Tires
• Tire pressure
• Spare tire
• Exterior lights
• Windshield wipers
• Battery condition
• Belts and visible hoses

Pay attention to warning lights on the dashboard.

If the vehicle has an unusual noise, fluid leak, overheating problem, brake problem, or other serious issue, have it inspected before leaving.

It is much easier to deal with a problem at home than on the side of the highway.

Before a long drive, check these 10 basic items:

1. Engine Oil

Make sure the engine oil is at the proper level.

2. Coolant

Check the coolant reservoir when the engine is completely cool.

3. Tires

Inspect all four tires for damage and excessive wear.

4. Tire Pressure

Set tire pressure according to the vehicle manufacturer's specification.

5. Spare Tire

Make sure your spare tire is properly inflated and usable.

6. Brakes

Pay attention to unusual brake noises, vibrations, warning lights, or changes in braking performance.

7. Exterior Lights

Check your headlights, brake lights, turn signals, and other important exterior lights.

8. Windshield Wipers

Make sure the wiper blades clean the windshield properly.

9. Windshield Washer Fluid

Fill the washer reservoir if necessary.

10. Dashboard Warning Lights

Do not ignore warning lights before beginning a long trip.

A few minutes of basic inspection can help identify problems before you get far away from home.

You do not need to become a mechanic to understand your vehicle.

Every new driver should learn these 10 basics.

1. Know How to Check Your Engine Oil

Engine oil is extremely important to engine life.

2. Know Your Correct Tire Pressure

Do not automatically use the maximum pressure printed on the tire sidewall. Use the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire pressure, commonly found on the driver's door-jamb label.

3. Know What Your Dashboard Warning Lights Mean

Some warning lights indicate problems that need immediate attention.

4. Know How to Open Your Hood

Learn where your hood release and safety latch are located.

5. Know Where Your Spare Tire and Tools Are

Find them before you have a flat tire.

6. Know How to Use Your Hazard Lights

Hazard lights can help warn other drivers when your vehicle is disabled or creating a temporary road hazard.

7. Know How to Check Your Coolant

Learn where the coolant reservoir is located, but never open a hot cooling system.

8. Know How to Check Your Tires

Regularly look for low pressure, damage, excessive wear, or objects stuck in the tread.

9. Know How to Jump-Start a Vehicle Safely

Incorrect jumper cable connections can cause vehicle damage, sparks, or personal injury. Learn the correct procedure before you need it.

10. Know When to Stop Driving

If your vehicle is overheating, losing oil pressure, experiencing serious brake problems, producing smoke, or showing other signs of a dangerous mechanical failure, continuing to drive can make the situation much worse.

Sometimes the smartest DIY decision is knowing when not to keep driving.

Basic car care is a great way to start learning about automobiles.

Take your time and identify components before touching or removing them.

Wear gloves and safety glasses when appropriate.

Never work underneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.

Never open a hot cooling system.

Keep your hands, clothing, hair, and tools away from moving engine components.

Never ignore serious brake, steering, tire, overheating, or oil-pressure problems.

When something is beyond your experience level, stop and get qualified help.

Your life is more important than the repair.

-Dirty Junky Car

Your vehicle's brakes are one of its most important safety systems. Learning the basics of brake maintenance can help you recognize worn parts and understand when your vehicle needs attention.

This guide covers basic brake pads and rotors only. Vehicle designs vary, so always check the correct repair information and specifications for your specific vehicle before beginning.

• Floor jack
• Pair of jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Basic socket or wrench set
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Brake caliper piston tool or C-clamp
• Caliper hanger or strong hook
• Brake cleaner
• New brake pads
• New brake rotors, if replacing them
• Gloves
• Safety glasses
• Shop towels

Always work on a flat, solid surface.

Set the parking brake when appropriate and chock the wheels that will remain on the ground.

Never work underneath or around a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Once the vehicle is raised, properly support it with jack stands.

Never allow a brake caliper to hang from its brake hose. Support the caliper with a proper hanger or hook.

If you are unsure about the condition of the braking system or your ability to complete the repair safely, stop and have the vehicle inspected by a qualified professional.

While the vehicle is still on the ground, slightly loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels.

Do not completely remove them yet.

Chock the rear wheels.

Raise the front of the vehicle using the proper lifting point.

Place jack stands under the proper support points and carefully lower the vehicle onto them.

Remove the lug nuts and both front wheels.

For additional safety, you can place the removed wheels underneath the vehicle away from your work area.

The brake caliper fits over the brake rotor.

Locate the caliper bolts and remove them using the correct socket or wrench.

Carefully slide the brake caliper away from the rotor.

Use a caliper hanger or strong hook to support it.

Never let the caliper hang from the brake hose.

Remove the old inner and outer brake pads.

Pay attention to how the pads, clips, and hardware are positioned before removing them.

Before installing thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston normally needs to be pushed back into the caliper.

Use the proper brake caliper piston tool and slowly compress the piston.

Never force a piston that does not move normally.

Install the new brake pads and required hardware.

Make sure everything is properly seated.

Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads.

Reinstall and properly tighten the caliper bolts according to the manufacturer's specifications.

Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Tighten the lug nuts in the proper pattern and torque them to the manufacturer's specification.

Before driving the vehicle, slowly pump the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm.

This helps move the caliper pistons and brake pads back into their normal operating positions.

Check the brake fluid level before driving.

Changing the front pads and rotors follows many of the same steps.

After removing the caliper and old brake pads, you will normally need to remove the caliper bracket.

Remove the bolts holding the caliper bracket and move the bracket out of the way.

Remove any rotor retaining screws or clips if equipped.

Slide the old brake rotor off the wheel hub.

Clean the hub surface before installing the new rotor.

Clean the protective coating from the friction surfaces of the new rotor with appropriate brake cleaner when required by the rotor manufacturer.

Install the new rotor.

Reinstall the caliper bracket, new brake pads, and brake caliper.

Properly tighten all fasteners to the manufacturer's specifications.

Basic rear disc brake pad replacement can be similar to replacing front brake pads.

Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle, remove the wheels, remove and support the brake caliper, remove the old pads, and install the new pads.

However, rear brake systems can be different because the parking brake may be built into the rear caliper or rotor assembly.

Some rear caliper pistons must be rotated while being pushed inward instead of simply being pushed straight in.

Vehicles with electronic parking brakes may also require a special service procedure.

Never force a rear caliper piston.

If the rear brake system requires a procedure you do not understand, stop and check the proper repair information for that vehicle.

For a basic rear disc brake system, remove the rear brake caliper and support it.

Remove the old brake pads.

Remove the caliper bracket if necessary.

Remove any rotor retaining hardware and carefully remove the old rotor.

Install the new rotor, reinstall the caliper bracket, install the new brake pads, and reinstall the caliper.

Rear brake and parking brake designs vary considerably between vehicles, so always verify the correct procedure before beginning.

You can often get a basic look at your brake pads through the wheel or after removing the wheel.

Look at the thickness of the brake pad friction material.

The friction material is the portion of the pad that presses against the brake rotor.

Compare the inner and outer pads whenever possible.

If the pads look very thin, damaged, cracked, contaminated, or are wearing unevenly, they should be inspected more closely.

Common signs of worn brake pads can include:

• Squeaking or squealing
• Grinding noises
• Brake wear warning light on equipped vehicles
• Thin brake pad material
• Longer stopping distance
• Changes in brake pedal feel
• Uneven brake pad wear

Never continue driving a vehicle that has obviously unsafe braking performance.

Brake rotors should have smooth and usable braking surfaces.

Possible signs of worn or damaged rotors include:

• Deep grooves
• Heavy scoring
• Cracks
• Severe rust or corrosion
• Excessive wear
• Brake pedal pulsation
• Steering wheel vibration while braking

Rotor thickness must also remain above the manufacturer's minimum specification.

A rotor may look acceptable but still be too thin to safely reuse.

Brakes can squeak for several reasons.

Sometimes a small amount of noise can occur from dust, moisture, surface rust, pad material, or normal brake operation.

Persistent squeaking can also indicate worn brake pads, brake hardware problems, uneven wear, contamination, or other brake problems.

Do not automatically assume every squeak means the brake pads are worn out.

Inspect the brakes to determine the actual cause.

Many brake pads use a small metal wear indicator.

As the brake pad wears down, the indicator can contact the brake rotor and create a noticeable high-pitched squeaking or squealing sound while the vehicle is moving or braking.

Think of it as a warning that says:

"Check your brakes!"

Do not confuse this warning with a harsh grinding noise.

Grinding can mean the brake pads are severely worn or another brake problem is present and should be inspected immediately.

Before installing new brake pads, the caliper piston usually needs to be moved back into the caliper.

Check the brake fluid reservoir level before compressing the piston. Pushing the piston inward can cause the fluid level in the reservoir to rise.

Use a proper brake caliper piston compression tool.

An old brake pad can sometimes be placed against the piston to help apply pressure evenly.

Slowly and evenly push the piston back into the caliper.

Do not rush.

Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston.

Do not allow brake fluid to overflow.

If the piston becomes extremely difficult to move, stop.

Do not simply apply more force.

A stuck piston, rear screw-in piston, electronic parking brake, or other problem may require a different procedure.

After completing any brake pad or rotor replacement:

• Double-check all brake components.
• Make sure all bolts and fasteners are properly tightened.
• Make sure the brake hoses are not twisted or damaged.
• Check the brake fluid level.
• Reinstall and properly torque the wheels.
• Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm.
• Follow the brake pad and rotor manufacturer's recommended break-in or bedding procedure.
• Test the brakes carefully at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.

Never begin normal driving with a soft brake pedal.

Take pictures before taking brake components apart.

Pictures can help you remember where clips, brake pads, brackets, and other hardware were originally installed.

Work on one side at a time whenever possible. That way, you can use the other side as a reference if you forget how something was positioned.

Most importantly, never rush a brake repair.

This guide is provided for general educational purposes only. Brake systems, procedures, torque specifications, parking brake designs, electronic systems, and replacement requirements vary by vehicle.

Always follow the vehicle manufacturer's service information and the brake component manufacturer's instructions for your specific vehicle.

Brakes are a critical vehicle safety system. If anything appears damaged, incorrectly installed, leaking, or unsafe, do not drive the vehicle until the braking system has been properly inspected and repaired.

Dirty Junky Car

Learn the basics. Work safely. Build your confidence.

Your vehicle's suspension helps keep the tires in contact with the road and helps provide a smoother, more controlled ride. Shocks and struts are important suspension components that help control vehicle movement.

If your vehicle feels excessively bouncy, unstable, or difficult to control, worn suspension parts could be the cause.

Some vehicles use separate shock absorbers in the front suspension.

Before beginning, verify that your vehicle actually uses front shocks rather than struts.

1. Park the vehicle on a solid, level surface.
2. Apply the parking brake and chock the wheels.
3. Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly.
4. Raise the vehicle using the correct lifting point.
5. Support the vehicle securely with jack stands.
6. Remove the wheel.
7. Locate the front shock absorber.
8. Inspect how the shock is attached at the top and bottom.
9. Support suspension components if required.
10. Remove the shock mounting hardware.
11. Remove the old shock.
12. Compare the old and new shocks.
13. Install the new shock in the correct position.
14. Tighten the mounting hardware to the manufacturer's specifications.
15. Reinstall the wheel.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque specification.

It is generally a good idea to replace shocks in pairs so both sides provide similar damping performance.

Rear shock replacement can be relatively simple on some vehicles, but designs vary.

1. Park on a solid, level surface.
2. Chock the wheels.
3. Loosen the wheel lug nuts if wheel removal is necessary.
4. Raise the vehicle.
5. Support it securely with jack stands.
6. Remove the wheel if needed.
7. Locate the rear shock.
8. Identify the upper and lower mounting points.
9. Support the suspension if required.
10. Remove the mounting hardware.
11. Remove the old shock.
12. Compare the replacement shock with the old one.
13. Install the new shock.
14. Tighten the mounting hardware to specification.
15. Reinstall the wheel if it was removed.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Torque the lug nuts properly.

Replace rear shocks in pairs whenever possible.

Front struts are more complicated than basic shock absorbers because they may be a structural part of the suspension.

Many strut assemblies also contain a coil spring.

WARNING: A compressed coil spring can store a dangerous amount of energy. Never remove the center strut shaft nut or disassemble a loaded spring unless you have the correct equipment, training, and repair procedure.

For beginners, a complete preassembled or "quick-strut" assembly can eliminate the need to transfer the coil spring on applications where one is available.

Basic replacement generally involves:

1. Park on a solid, level surface.
2. Chock the wheels.
3. Loosen the lug nuts.
4. Raise and securely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Locate the complete strut assembly.
7. Disconnect brackets or components attached to the strut as required.
8. Support the steering knuckle or suspension.
9. Remove the lower strut mounting hardware.
10. Support the strut before removing the upper mounting nuts.
11. Remove the complete strut assembly.
12. Install the replacement assembly.
13. Reinstall all mounting hardware.
14. Tighten everything to manufacturer specifications.
15. Reinstall the wheel.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Torque the lug nuts properly.

A wheel alignment is commonly required or recommended after front strut replacement.

Some vehicles use struts in the rear suspension instead of separate shocks and springs.

The exact procedure depends heavily on the vehicle.

The basic process may include:

1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Chock the wheels.
3. Loosen the lug nuts.
4. Raise and support the vehicle with jack stands.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Locate the rear strut assembly.
7. Support the suspension as required.
8. Disconnect any brackets or components attached to the strut.
9. Remove the lower mounting hardware.
10. Support the strut.
11. Remove the upper mounting hardware.
12. Remove the old strut assembly.
13. Install the replacement strut.
14. Reinstall and properly tighten all hardware.
15. Reinstall the wheel.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Torque the lug nuts properly.

Never attempt to disassemble a loaded coil spring without the proper tools, training, and repair information.

A shock absorber helps control the movement of your vehicle's suspension.

When your tire hits a bump, the suspension moves up and down. Without something controlling that movement, the vehicle could continue bouncing.

The shock absorber slows and controls this movement.

Shocks help provide:

• Better vehicle control
• Reduced bouncing
• Improved tire contact with the road
• Better stability
• A more controlled ride

A shock absorber does not normally support the entire weight of the vehicle. Its main job is controlling suspension movement.

A strut performs a similar damping job to a shock absorber, but it can also serve as a structural part of the suspension.

A typical strut assembly may include:

• Strut
• Coil spring
• Upper strut mount
• Bearing
• Spring seats
• Dust boot
• Bump stop

Because the strut can be part of the suspension's structure, replacing one can be more involved than replacing a basic shock absorber.

Shocks and struts both help control suspension movement, but they are not exactly the same.

A shock absorber mainly controls bouncing and suspension movement.

A strut controls suspension movement while also serving as a structural suspension component.

Your vehicle may have:

• Shocks on all four corners
• Struts on all four corners
• Struts in front and shocks in the rear
• Another suspension design

You cannot simply replace a strut with a shock or a shock with a strut. The vehicle's suspension was designed for a specific type of component.

Worn shocks can change the way your vehicle feels and handles.

Common symptoms can include:

• Excessive bouncing
• Poor control over bumps
• Nose-diving during braking
• Excessive body movement
• Uneven tire wear
• Fluid leaking from a shock
• Unusual suspension noises
• Vehicle feeling unstable at highway speeds

A visual inspection can sometimes reveal leaking, damaged, or heavily corroded shocks.

These symptoms can also be caused by other suspension or tire problems, so proper inspection is important before replacing parts.

Worn struts can cause symptoms similar to worn shocks.

Possible warning signs include:

• Excessive bouncing
• Clunking noises
• Poor handling
• Vehicle leaning excessively during turns
• Nose-diving while braking
• Uneven tire wear
• Fluid leaking from the strut
• Vehicle feeling unstable
• Unusual movement after hitting bumps

Do not assume the strut is bad based on one symptom alone.

Ball joints, control arms, bushings, sway bar links, tires, wheel bearings, and other components can sometimes produce similar symptoms.

Your suspension is designed to absorb bumps while keeping your tires in contact with the road.

When you hit a bump, the springs compress and rebound. The shocks or struts help control that movement.

If the vehicle continues bouncing several times after the bump, the shocks or struts may no longer be controlling the suspension properly.

Other possible causes can include:

• Worn shocks
• Worn struts
• Damaged springs
• Worn suspension bushings
• Incorrect tire pressure
• Damaged tires
• Other loose or damaged suspension components

A vehicle that feels excessively bouncy, unstable, or difficult to control should be inspected.

Suspension work requires extra attention to safety.

Never work underneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Always use properly positioned jack stands on a solid, level surface.

Never place any part of your body underneath an unsupported vehicle.

Be especially careful around coil springs. A compressed automotive coil spring can contain a large amount of stored energy and can cause severe injury if released unexpectedly.

Always use the correct repair procedure and torque specifications for your specific vehicle.

If a suspension repair requires equipment or procedures beyond your experience level, have the work performed by a qualified professional.

Your life is more important than the repair.

© Dirty Junky Car. All Rights Reserved.

This information is provided for educational purposes only. Suspension designs, repair procedures, torque specifications, lifting points, alignment requirements, and safety procedures vary by vehicle. Always consult the manufacturer's service information for your specific year, make, model, and engine before performing repairs.